The Tai-Yuan Yonok Chiangsan ethnic group has spread to settle in 8 areas: Mae Chaem district, Chiangmai province, Laplae district, Uttaradit province, Si Satchanalai district, Sukhothai province, Chainat province, Suphanburi province, Ratchaburi province, Nan Province and Uthai Thani province. Thai-Yuan people settled in Long city, where located the ancient community and the important outpost city in the south of the Lanna Kingdom, possessed the similar outfit culture to other Tai-Yuan or Yonok ethnic groups. Teen Jok sarong is the woven attire on special occasions. The materials used include cotton yarns, silk yarns, silver threads, gold threads, woven into beautiful patterns. Pha Teen Chok Muang Long is apparently found the main outfit of those people in Long City for at least 200 years.
Chok weaving is a painstaking process. Weavers have to be very patient and it takes a great deal of concentration as it requires a delicate craftsmanship. Teen Chok fabric also is woven as cloth for daily use such as tote bags, shawls, blankets, pillows, etc. Several patterns are minimally and beautifully created out of natural environments either plants or animals’ gestures. It also narrates mottos, beliefs, superstitions, and rituals within the patterns. Therefore, Chok weaving is deemed a tangible object that vividly conveys the way of life, beliefs, culture and wisdom of the Tai-Yuan Chiangsan people.
The significant uniqueness of Tai-Yuan Yonok Chiangsan Chok weaving is its liberal pattern design. For example, the main motif can be both the main and supplementary motif. Therefore, to title the motif does not always signify its main motif at the center of the fabric When the fabric is woven to the desired length, a weaver basically ends with a special pattern as his unique identical autograph and to protect against robbery, namely "Mai sin”. Then each part is assembled with a single stitch, consisting of three parts of separated woven fabric:
- Ew Sin or Hua Sin (Top part)– White and red woven fabrics, believed to be the auspicious color to the wearers, are popular used. The white fabric is on the top part while the red fabric is next to Tua Sin (Middle part) of the tube skirt.
- Tua Sin (Middle part) – It is in between Ew Sin and Teen Sin. Any pattern and any weaving technique, such as Chok, Pan Kai, full-length weaving, can be created on Tua Sin. Finally, Tua Sin part is stitched to Ew Sin and Teen sin.
- Teen Sin (Bottom part) – Woven with Chok weaving technique, Teen Sin definitely supports the entire fabric to be outstandingly elegant from its specially woven in full-length and from its combination of ancient patterns. There are 2 types of Teen sin:
Main motif - The most massive motif in the middle of Teen Chok fabric, namely Teen sin. It is in floral pattern and in Khang Dok pattern alternately along the horizontal length of Teen Chok fabric. Each Teen Chok fabric is called by its 2 main motifs:
- Main motif in Floral pattern
Muang Long Chok fabric in floral pattern holds 12 ancient patterns: Nok Khu Kin Nam Ruam Ton pattern, Sampao Loinam pattern, Nok Yang Ngao pattern ( Nok Song Krajok), Kha Moddang pattern, Kha Kampoong pattern, Kor Lai pattern, Mah Nad pattern ( pineapple), Chan Pad Kleeb pattern, Dok Chan pattern, Kor Dao pattern, Kor Pakkood pattern, and Dok Kor pattern.
- Main motif in continuous main pattern
Muang Long Chok fabric in continuous pattern holds 7 ancient patterns: Bai Pakwan pattern, Mang Ponglen pattern, Khom and Chornoi Tungchai pattern, Kor Namku pattern, Chan Pad Kleeb pattern, Krue Kabmuak pattern, Kongkeng Chonnok pattern, and Poom Doknok Kin Nam Ruam Ton pattern.
- Supplementary motif – The tiny and supporting motif to elaborate the perfection of Teen Chok fabric. The various 6 supplementary motifs are categorized as follow :
- Supplementary motif in the plant concept.
- Supplementary motif in the animal concept.
- Supplementary motif in the geometric shapes concept.
- Supplementary motif in the applied shapes concept.
- Supplementary motif in the animal and the geometric shapes concept.
- Supplementary motif in the animal and the applied shapes concept.
These 6 categories of supplementary motifs vary in abundant patterns as the new patterns are continuously created such as Kabmak pattern, Hang Sapao Tonson pattern, Soiprao pattern, Medmanglak pattern, Bua Kwam pattern, Bua Ngai pattern, Dok Pikulchan pattern, Hang Sapao Nok pattern, Nok Koom pattern, Ka Moddang pattern, Tom Krue pattern, Hang Sapao Doktom pattern, Funpla pattern, Kor Liew pattern, Krue Kor pattern, Mali Luay pattern, Tao Mai Luay pattern, and butterfly pattern, etc.
Each part of Pha Sin is sewn with one of the traditional sewing methods. Previously, all sewing was manually done. Sewing was therefore the ancient certificate of female skill, representing useful and sophisticate fabric knowledge inherited from the ancestors. It also identified the social class by the material used in weaving such as silk yarns, silver and gold threads. All three parts of sarong are sewn together in a circle, which are titled differently.
- Two parts of Ew Sin - That is to sew white and red fabric together, is called ‘Yeb Kiew’
- Tua Sin and red fabric Ew Sin - ‘Yeb Chong Ew Kob’
- Tua Sin and Teen Sin – ‘Son Hang Len’ (Takuad)
- Side parts of Tua Sin or Stitching – ‘Dook Pha’
With its distinctive identity, special weaving technique firmly inherited, up-to-date management, cultural value dissemination, these elements elevate Krun Pranom Thapang to be the trendsetter of the ancient Chiangsan Chok weaving of Long city. He has invented the ‘Yok Kao’ Chok weaving technique, which helps shorten 5 times of weaving duration. He is also the main collector of the long 200-year ancient Chiangsan Chok fabrics while he continues to create and educate the new workpiece to a wide circle of the next generation until Pha Chok Muang Long is well recognized among other weavers. The stable career is established in the community. And he is honored as the National Master Artisan in 2011. The House of National Artist – Pranom Thapang is also the center of knowledge and local wisdom about Pha Chok Muang Long and natural fabric dyeing demonstration, with a high determination to transcend knowledge and inherited history of Tai-Yaun ethnic culture to the next generations.