Technique : Three twill Mudmee fabric weaving using the chemicals for fabric dyeing and painting.
Making process (in detail) :

1. Pattern design
   Kru Eam creates the pattern by herself out of Phan Bai Sri - a symbolic tree-like ornament used for the Buddhist ceremony by writing the pattern on the graph paper to be used as a model for the Mudmee process.
2. Silk yarn bleaching
   This process is to remove sericin, and various contaminants attached to the silk before further dyeing process.  Firstly, dissolve bleaching powder in hot water (1 sachet of bleaching powder per 1 kilogram of silk yarns) then boil silk yarns for 30 minutes.
   Turn the silk yarns back and forth to allow thorough bleaching until the yellow yarns gradually turns white. Then rinse in clean water for 3 times. Twitch the yarns for further sun-dry process. The finished bleached silk yarns will become more softened and whitened and easy to dye.
3. Warp silk yarn dyeing
   Warp silk yarns are chemically dyed in black by dissolving black chemical dyeing color in hot water (2 sachets of chemical dyeing color per 1 kilogram of silk yarns). Add 2 tablespoons of salt and boil silk yarns for 30 minutes. During the time, turn the silk yarns back and forth to allow thorough dyeing. Set aside and leave to cool them down. Rinse in clean water for 3 times. Then twitch the yarns for further sun-dry process.
4. Weft silk yarn preparing
   Divide the bleached silk yarns into groups for tie-dyeing process, called “Khon Mee”. it is to circle the silk yarns around Lak Khon Mee (a stick) to the left and right to the specified number of silk yarns. Then tie the silk yarns into 1 lam and further tie the next lam until it reaches the numbers per pre-designed in the graph paper. For this Hol fabric weaving, 100 lams of silk yarns, called 1 hua, are unconnectedly tie-dyed from each lam.
5. Mudmee and weft silk yarn dyeing
   Tie the silk yarns according to the designed pattern in the graph paper by using the non-absorbing to color materials such as banana tree fiber or plastic rope to cover the dye color from the tied yarn area. Next, dye with chemicals dyeing color for 3 times by adding 2 tablespoons of salt in hot water and boil silk yarns for 30 minutes. During the time, turn the silk yarns back and forth to allow thorough dyeing. Set aside and leave to cool them down. Rinse in clean water for 3 times. Then twitch the yarns for further sun-dry process. The resist-dyeing process of this Mudmee fabric increases one more painting process for more colorful expression on the fabric per following processes:

1. “Mudmee” process using banana tree fiber or plastic rope to cover where the natural silk yarn color and the area where painting are needed.
2. Dye silk yarns in chemical yellow color. Rinse and leave to dry.
3. “Obb Mee” (the second Mudmee process to remain the patten from the first tie-dyeing) by concealing silk yarns where yellow pigment on the silk yarns is required.
4. Remove the rope at the area where painting is needed. Then paint silk yarns in chemical green, pink and blue color. When the colors are dry, conceal those area with “Obb Mee” technique.
5. Dye silk yarns in chemical red color. Rinse and leave to dry.
6. “Obb Mee” by concealing silk yarns where red pigment on the silk yarns is required.
7. Dye silk yarns in chemical dark brown color. Rinse and leave to dry.
8. Remove all the rope from tie-dyeing. Rinse and leave to dry.

6. Containing silk yarns into the shuttles : Contain each lam of silk yarns into the shuttles
7. Setting warp yarns into the beater (Fun wee)
   Set the black-dyed warp yarns into the beater (Fun wee) for 60 lobs. Three twill woven technique is used. Nip the warp yarns off and reel into a bobbin at the other end. Adjust the warps into order and put into the loom.
8. Weaving
   Manage the warp yarns in the heddle. Have the weft yarns spout back and forth to be woven in the beater and repeat until the woven dense fabric is perfectly completed. Reel and adjust the finished woven fabric in the fabric tube alternately.

The inspiration of this workpiece creating is when Kru Eam was impressed with Phan Bai Sri during her merit making occasion at a a temple in Surin province. She later designed Pha Mudmee pattern and creatively decorated its details to be the unique Mudmee pattern. Painting technique is used instead of dyeing in some yarn areas, making the fabric more colorful and cheerful.

Reference :

• Institute for the Promotion of Thai Arts and Crafts .(Public Organization) n.d. “Arts and Crafts of Hol Cloth”. www.sacit.or.th. Accessed July 2023, 1 . /_83845c9be065648a743d7bbbab03e21e.pdf
• Eam Yabdee, Interview by We View Go Co., Ltd. 2023. (24 March).

Compiled by :

• We will Go Co., Ltd.
• Knowledge Promotion and Dissemination Department Office, Handicraft Value Promotion Institute, Promotion of Thai Arts and Crafts (Public Organization)