Technique : Chok

• Chok : Chok is another weaving technique by lifting warp threads and inserting silk weft threads into the fabric to create desired patterns. To create the intricate patterns of chok, the weaver raises the warps with a pointed instrument, such as a stick, a porcupine quill or a finger, to create a space to insert the coloured supplementary patterning threads.

Making Process (in detail) :

1. Reeling cotton to prepare the warps and supplementary yarns.
2. Setting warp yarns, calculating how much yarn a weaver needs, and then lining the yarns.
3. Pulling cotton threads is to get the expected width and height of the threads.
4. Inserting the warp yarns into the reed, setting a heald, and preparing the loom.
5. Making cotton threads run through the reed. Then setting a heald to form a simple criss-cross pattern.
6. The Sueb Hook process is to put cotton threads into a loom. After tying the healds containing the weft and supplementary threads in the loom, start weaving.
7. Creating chok patterns is executed through picking or raising colored threads, or threads of select design with a pointed instrument such as a porcupine quill and alternating the picking with the warp.
8. Creating and collecting a pattern into a heald which is lifted up to pass the threads back and forth.
9. After preparing the warp and the weft yarns, then tie the warp threads with the reed of a loom and proceed a shuttle into a weaving process. The warps are separated by raising or lowering heald frames to form a clear space where the weft can pass. The weft is propelled across the loom by a shuttle. It is then pushed up against the fell of the cloth by the reed or the beater.

Sin Teen Chok Mueng Long is one of the significant works of Tai Yuan People in Long district, Phrae province. Sin Teen Chok Mueng Long can be divided in three parts: Hua Sin (head or waistband), Tua Sin (body) and Teen Sin (hem band). A waist band is commonly made from white and red pieces of cloth. The body usually has horizontal stripes on the yellow background. The hem band is woven using the Chok technique. Teen Chok of Mueng Long is different from Mae Chaem Teen Chok. Its traditional patterns include Phak Waen Lak Nok Kin Nam Ruam Ton, Khor Lai, Chan Paed Kleeb, Sapao. Now many new chok designs are created to make a modern look.

In 1979, Her Majesty Queen Sirikit the Queen Mother received a hand-woven Pha Sin Teen Chok made by Mrs. Pranom Tapaeng. The beauty of Pha Sin Teen Chok caught Her Majesty’s eyes and inspired her to use it to bring extra income to villagers. Her Majesty then gave Mrs. Pranom 2,000 baht to proceed with the chok weaving. Since then, Mrs. Pranom has taught and guided people to weave traditional Teen Chok and preserve the ancient art of chok weaving which is disappearing.

The painstaking demanded by the chok technique with the use of porcupine quill makes the weaving time-consuming. Mrs. Pranom then developed the weaving technique using the Yok Takor technique to save time. While preserving traditional patterns, further development is also made into modern patterns, colors and usage to broaden the appeal, and to meet customer needs and expectations. Mrs. Pranom’s handiworks had consistently won many royal awards so much so that she was recognized as Thai National Artist in the field of Visual Arts (Fine Arts- Art of Woven Fabric) in 2010 and Master Artisan of Weaving (Pha Sin Teen Chok Mueng Long) in 2011.

Reference :
Interview of Mrs. Chonticha Tapaeng, Sister in Law of Mrs. Pranom Tapaeng (The Master Artisan of Thailand, 2011)/ (10 December 2021)
Editor : Dreamworks Advertising Co., Ltd.
Date of record : March 25th, 2022